
Mary initailizes the middle crux (.10d) of Drugs (.11b)
Making time to do things important to you.
The day before leaving town to spend Christmas with our families, Mary and I hiked into the Flatirons to enjoy the views and unique climbing.
I’ve always been advised to carry a small traditional leader rack when exploring new crags. I had discovered the exact location of Der Freischutz hiking a week earlier and hadn’t spent much time analyzing the exact nature of the routes, noting the number of bolted lead routs. Upon return with a cord and my stickies, I was stoked to get on such exciting stone. Clipping bolts happily on my way up the warm-up, Bidoigt also known as Sex.
Before I knew it, I was a powerful move and a body length above my last protection; working into another powerful position in order to reach a vertical crack. Moving my feet into position on small crystals and less-than dime edges to make the reach ahead, I notice the distance between my waist and the last bolt. It quickly becomes apparent that I needed a stopper to plug into the crack above in order to do this climb safely.
Upon this realization I tense up a little thinking about my options. Being a man of reason, I first think about moving back-down and the reachy, crimpy move I found myself gassing through to gain the ledge I’m now perched upon. The next thought I had was to work it out. This would involve cautiously moving into and out-of the entry of the final crux. The idea being that, before-you-know-it, you’re cruising through the crux having familiarized yourself with the entry into it.
After a couple of attempts, I feel helpless as I fail to relax and give myself a fair try at the finish. Adding to my trepidation, is the dwindling strength of my grip from dragging out this lead. I know it’s time to commit and end this metal struggle.
I reach down into the the crimps that got me onto this ledge. They feel as good as I could expect. Way over-gripping, and well aware of it, I manipulate my feet into the basic vicinity of the smears I used to gain the ledge and started working down. Once below the one challenging move, I cruised down to the last protection and had my partner lower me.
Scrambling around the back side (5.4) with the cord I pulled from the failed lead climb, I wonder if my climbing mentors ever followed the advise of their mentors. Perhaps they had to learn the hard way too, and if so, what are their stories?