The Climber, The Man, The Legend!

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The information within will change your aspirations forever. I always try to remember that I only have one life to live and that I'm only going to be young once. If I don't explore the ends I desire now, will I ever be more capable? I cannot wait to explore new places just as much as I enjoy the pleasant memories of old exploits. Please begin your exploration below.

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Back on the horse!

It’s after 6pm on a Sunday and I’m trying to keep my (climbing) partner from thinking or asking about the time.

Why?

If I have my way, we’ll run down this mountain which took us 40 minutes to hike-up, drive 1 mile to another climbing access point, hike up 20 minutes to the climbing and proceed to climb as long as the dwindling day-light permits.

Yes, I’m back at it.  Cramming as much physical brutality into everyday as possible.

But it’s a Sunday and I’m nowhere near home and I’m still a moon light hike away from reaching my car & heading home.  As I’m hiking under the moon considering the feats of the day and my fiance’s request for an early return; I rest assured that I made the most of this day.

Adventures with Lions

Looking out over the city and the the homes that back right up to the foothills who would of guess the peril we were in? On the high point of the Datoka Ridge Trail; well, to be exact, the high point of the ridge itself, 150 yards from the actual trail lower in the gully. To get to this high point you take one of the many cut offs from the actual Dakota Ridge Trail around a rock ridge to it’s crest where another narrow trail exists. This rock ridge is much like a mohawk ridding this long ridge and is quite fascinating to see.

I didn’t think anything of what was happening and even made a joke about my dogs silliness as perilous events began to unravel. Simply because it happens all of the time. My agro mutt Ike, who weighs about 50 pounds and definitely has some Chow in him, charges off back down the narrow trail to rides the ridge inevitably chasing a squirrel. We would always joke that Ike loves to going rock climbing with us because he’s content chasing squirrels in the talus below the cliffs for hours on end.

Just as Ike charges through a break in the rock ridge behind us down the trail 100 years he quickly doubles back and I humorously comment that the squirrel pull a fast one on him and doubled back. Before I finished my chuckle joking about his uncontrollable urges to chase animals smaller than himself, a large figure appears on the ridge above Ike. Twitching tail and amazingly graceful movement high on the ridge of rock I quickly realize there’s a mountain lion perched 15 feet above a clueless Ike; both of them still about 100 yards away from us.

I thought for sure the moment that I was in shock recoiling from misjudgement of the situation was the moment I would witness my dog becoming the next meal for the amazing creature. Having been given that extra moment, I began yelling at the lion hoping to scare him off. As his gaze shifted from Ike to me I suddenly realized the peril I was in as well. My mind shifted from concern for my dog to concern for my own well being.

From the lion’s perch, it undoubtedly had the upper hand and displayed it’s confidence in the fact by maintaining his position and not budging. Swallowing my fear I maintained his attention through verbal and physical gestures, all the while commanding Ike to come to me immediately. I just had to hope Ike’s retreat would be successful as he pranced towards me unaware of the danger lurking above him. I then commanded Mary to lease both of the dogs, Floyd was further from the lion than any of us (thank goodness) and to evacuate the area while I maintained the lions attention and hopefully kept him on his perch until they were safely far enough away for my retreat.

Thinking back at the events, it becomes clear that Ike was never chasing a squirrel but ran off after the lion, making thinking that like a deer it would provide a fun chase. Which makes me laugh that my silly little 50 pound dog got away with a close encounter with a lion. Perhaps this was the first time the lion had ever been charged by another animal and Ike had the initial element of surprise.

Death and Adventure

The summit of Longs Peak, days after a hiker fatality.

Nothing catches my attention like death in the pursuit of adventure. Having a keen sense for adventure, or rather, an annoyingly persistent urge for adventure, I rarely think about the actual danger I often put myself into. Stories of other’s failing to survive their pursuit bring about mixed feelings. First, the desire understand more; most importantly did they make a mistake or was something extenuating the cause? Then remorse, it’s sad when people die. Lastly fear, “that could have happened to me”.

The last feeling, fear, is often followed with a whole train of thought justifying our relentlessness to continue with our own danger seeking. We all know we

Yellow Spur, Climbed a week after a climber fatality.

assume a certain amount of risk just getting around town and navigating the interstate system when traveling between metropolises. The thought train continues as we then further rationalize that seeking danger for ourselves is part of our lifestyle and without that excitement we wouldn’t be living life to its fullest. This is where the train stops and rational thought unloads.

Seeking danger isn’t an underlying theme in our recreational desires. Rather, seeking adventure has the underlying theme of danger. A true adventurist specializes in bringing the element of danger into the forefront and mitigating it before it becomes an issue. Coming full circle when hearing of ill-fated stories of other’s misadventure, thoughts drift to understanding even the most uncontrollable of circumstances that caused fatality. Simple things like gear inspections, preparedness for weather and the aggravation of unobtained goals, the patience to obsessively protect upward progress (trad climbing) and to maintain crystal clear awareness are constant reminders when reading through the news on any given day.

A Sense of Adventure


With the impending closure of a substantial amount of Flatiron climbing looming; I’ve been making time to explore the some of the gems the Flatirons offer.

Today I reinstalled Google Maps to make quick understanding of exactly how to get to Velvet Elvis and the East Ironing Boards.

Not that I don’t know where it is or even how to get there;

it’s just that every time I head up Bluebell Canyon West of the Royal Arch Trail I get distracted by a side adventure or two.  Having made it to the entrance of the boulder jammed gully (after one side adventure and before another) that provides access to the East Ironing Boards, I needed some reassurance of my presumed position.

Even though reaching my goal of discovering Velvet Elvis and the East Ironing Boards wasn’t realized, this trip in was spectacular.  I explored the gullies that rise up North to the Third Flatiron.  The Easterly most of the gullies, called the 1911 Gully, allowed me to achieve the West Bench of the Third Flatiron by climbing a moderate 70 yards out of the top of the gully and onto the Southeast spread of the West Bench.

It wasn’t until I reached the next gully west that I noticed the beginning of the trek into the Ironing Boards.  I was traveling on the North Slope, where the snow was most manageable, which put the entry to the Ironing Boards off to my left.

From this position, the entry would require scrambling the lip of a snow covered house sized boulder.  The snow looked fresh, ready to supply good footing that would add to my confidence.  Having evaluated the entry to the Ironing Boards I was back to thinking about the slope North of me.  The gully looked like it was worth exploring, and so Velvet Elvis and the Ironing Boards would have to wait.

When I got into the car today I was set on discovering Velvet Elvis.  When the exploring began, the sense of adventure took over and discovering everything on the way to Velvet Elvis took precedence.  To me, The Sense of Adventure is enjoying everything you see getting to where you are going.  The best part is, the thrill of discovering a new crag is still alive and I’ll be back to explore the wonders of Bluebell Canyon yet another day.



Climbing at Der Freischutz (der FRY-shoots)

Mary climbing at Der Freischutz

Mary initailizes the middle crux (.10d) of Drugs (.11b)

Making time to do things important to you.

The day before leaving town to spend Christmas with our families, Mary and I hiked into the Flatirons to enjoy the views and unique climbing.

I’ve always been advised to carry a small traditional leader rack when exploring new crags. I had discovered the exact location of Der Freischutz hiking a week earlier and hadn’t spent much time analyzing the exact nature of the routes, noting the number of bolted lead routs. Upon return with a cord and my stickies, I was stoked to get on such exciting stone.  Clipping bolts happily on my way up the warm-up, Bidoigt also known as Sex.

Before I knew it, I was a powerful move and a body length above my last protection; working into another powerful position in order to reach a vertical crack.  Moving my feet into position on small crystals and less-than dime edges to make the reach ahead, I notice the distance between my waist and the last bolt.  It quickly becomes apparent that I needed a stopper to plug into the crack above in order to do this climb safely.

Upon this realization I tense up a little thinking about my options.  Being a man of reason, I first think about moving back-down and the reachy, crimpy move I found myself gassing through to gain the ledge I’m now perched upon.  The next thought I had was to work it out.  This would involve cautiously moving into and out-of the entry of the final crux.  The idea being that, before-you-know-it, you’re cruising through the crux having familiarized yourself with the entry into it.

After a couple of attempts, I feel helpless as I fail to relax and give myself a fair try at the finish.  Adding to my trepidation, is the dwindling strength of my grip from dragging out this lead.  I know it’s time to commit and end this metal struggle.

I reach down into the the crimps that got me onto this ledge.  They feel as good as I could expect.  Way over-gripping, and well aware of it, I manipulate my feet into the basic vicinity of the smears I used to gain the ledge and started working down.  Once below the one challenging move, I cruised down to the last protection and had my partner lower me.

Scrambling around the back side (5.4) with the cord I pulled from the failed lead climb, I wonder if my climbing mentors ever followed the advise of their mentors.  Perhaps they had to learn the hard way too, and if so, what are their stories?

Winter in Boulder, Colorado

Fresh tracks hiking in Eldorado Canyon State Park

Fresh tracks hiking in Eldorado Canyon State Park

It’s winter time in Boulder.

The colder months have a profound effect me; and it’s in a great way!  Here is what winter in Boulder means to me:

  • Getting fresh tracks on long trials through the Flatirons
  • Climbing when that’s the last thing anyone else would think of doing
  • Finding time to drive up 70 and enjoy one of our world class ski resorts

Just as the temperatures begin to change so does the mindset of the outdoor athlete.  Suddenly instead of wondering into the Flatirons for exciting views and challenging hikes, we find ourselves deep in the Foothills, past Jamestown after the roads turn to dirt finding frozen creeks, hillsides, and deep fluffy power.

Once the temperatures have settled in and we can really say it’s winter, our minds drift back to the rock behind our little “25 square-miles surrounded by reality.“  Any winter-time visitor to Boulder can become ecstatic about the dank visual aroma of the Flatirons; like they’ve found their new favorite roast to start the day.  However, just like during the summer, the real beauty requires a ticket on the shoe-rubber-express.

Be-warned: these things go the other-way too.  After the fresh tracks are all gone, what’s left is a slip-n-slide that will crush your every last hope for an unscathed adventure.  For the young this is a tempting spectacle as near misses can excite the soul and provide a good laugh.

Dinosaur Mountain Adventure

After hiking and adventuring about Dinosaur Mountain for a bit it becomes instinctual to believe the name is derived from the large number of free standing rocks. Like mannequins amongst the large shelving units of a department store you’re overwhelmed by the larger Flatirons and subtly intrigued by the smaller displays of the hills’ wares.